Not arecommended strategy for those unfamilair with how much they use/need/ replenish. I can do this because I have a AH counting battery monitor and know how much I am draining it each night. I use manual switches(1/2/both/Off), when I have 2 batteries, but right now only have one hard working AGM battery for both house and engine, and my switches are all turned to battery 2 as there is no battery 1. Whether this is an issue or not is specific to the person who own the rig and their usage, and the presence or not of other charging sources. The diode based ones will protect engine battery from depleting from house loads, but really impair recharging when underway. There are a zillion secondary battery protection devices out there. Properly wired, it is much more effective at charging a depleted house battery. There is much less voltage drop over a simple continuous duty dumb solenoid. If it has a large finned heatsink it is wasting power, plain and simple. Some isolators do some hinky things to attempt to negate the voltage drop, mostly by tricking the voltage regulator into seeking a higher voltage which vastly complicates the wiring, and still wastes electrons. If it has a large finned heatsink it is a diode based isolator and drops voltage about 0.5 volts across it, dissipating that alternator energy as heat, slowing house and perhaps engine battery charging, and making it dang near impossible for the alternator to fully charge the battery no matter how long one drives.
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